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Kebabs, Fragrant Biryani along with a World More: A Historic Indian City Secures a Place on UNESCO's Culinary List.

Aromatic rice dish being prepared using the time-honored Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is simmered on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the vessel's cover tightly sealed with dough.

Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.

The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.

An International Accolade

Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".

The accolade "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.

Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.

A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine

The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".

With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an profound devotion for food.

"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
Tender kebabs on a plate
Lucknow is renowned for its succulent kebabs.

A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine

The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.

These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.

It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.

But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.

More Than Just Famous Dishes

Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.

The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.

Fluffy dessert Makkhan Malai
The city showcases distinctive seasonal delights, such as Makkhan Malai, a unique airy dessert, in the winter.

Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries

Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.

In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.

To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Popular tea stall serving masala chai
A famous tea stall is known for its milky spiced tea.

Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage

The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.

On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation do not want to master the art.

A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.

The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.

By

Brooke Wright

Lena Visser is a seasoned journalist and storyteller based in Delft, passionate about uncovering hidden narratives.

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